Domaine Lafarge - An Evening with Max Henri Lafarge
At the start of the month, Max Henri Lafarge joined James Handford MW, at our cellars in South Kensington for a fantastic evening tasting and discussing the wines of Domaine Lafarge.
"Max was on great form as ever - as were the wines. The four Cotes de Beaune wines were exceptional. A juxtaposition of vintages was the highlight of the Beaujolais chat. One unifying characteristic of these biodynamic wines is a depth and intensity rarely seen in such humble appellations. Aromas may be delicate but appear to penetrate deeper into the skull and even beyond the glass! A relaxed and informative evening all round.
The Wines
Bourgogne Aligote Raisins Dores 2022 - £23.95
Max confirms the Raisins Dores as a variety distinct from the norm. Berries are smaller and more deeply coloured resulting in intensity and some longevity. Aligote has mushroomed in popularity. With some vines dating back 100 years or more, this is perhaps the preeminent example.
Lime, Mirabelle, fresh almond with delicate, though energetic acidity. Mature enough to give some density and richness to the finish. Drink now to 2028.
The Beaujolais wines, labelled Lafarge-Vial (Vial is Chantal’s maiden name and she is local to the region), are generally crushed and fermented in concrete tanks, with just 15 to 20% of the harvest allowed to start fermenting before the crush. Many others from the region would practise more whole bunch fermentation. As for the Burgundies they are aged only in older barrels.
Fruits are muted now on the nose and palate but no loss of finesse. Some earth and mineral notes, a true expression of the granite soils here. It is a real mouth-filler. For now, a rose bud waiting to flower. Elegant and beautifully balanced.
A riper vintage and one more highly notes by pundits. Is that purely down to the immediacy of the strawberry, almost gummy fruit nose and the weight and cream texture on the palate. Hints of green raspberry and acids are still strong but all in harmony with the open fruit style. There’s a lushness about this. I wrote ‘bath bomb’!
Does this make 2022 ‘better’ than 2023. You will have to try them all!!
Fleurie Joie de Palais 2023 - £40.95
‘Joy of the palate’! There are some very steep slopes here and work is done by horses. Soils are meaner and of crumbly, pink granite. The result is some piercing concentration, even more depth and length but with far lower yields. In some vintages yields are so poor that Joie de Palais must be blended back into the Fleurie.
Fleurie Clos Vernay 2022 - £39.99
Hints of warmth on the nose (eucalyptus) that did not appear on any other samples. The colour is deeper and, like the village wine, Clos Vernay is more open and immediately accessible. Many, including Vito, had this as Beauj of the night.
Bourgogne Passetoutgrains Anthologie 2022 Magnum
As of the regular Passetoutgrains, the Gamay and Pinot are a field blend of vines so old that it’s not always easy to tell which is which! De-stemmed using the hand riddle. Previous vintages have been made without electricity!! Picked by 8 people in one day, straight to the fermentation tanks and onward to rest in large barrels. So natural, profound and truly a thing of beauty.
Still closed to the nose and a little tight on the palate so hold for another 3 or 4 years. No doubt that you can feel the intensity though.
Volnay 1er Cru Mitans 2014 - £150.00
Mitans is in the middle of the slope with slightly richer soils than the better known Lafarge 1er Crus. It tends to be a little more rounded and matures earlier. I tasted this 5 years ago and note a distinct improvement in weight and concentration. This is one of those quirks of fine burgundy and not the first time I have found almost weedy 2014s turn juicy and mouth filling. Even browning and some chocolate, mocha and black spice on the nose. Broad, open and luxurious in the mouth. I call it a leather armchair wine!"
James Handford MW, Waud Handford Wines, 8th October 2025.
