Judgement of Paris

Back in May our friends at The International Wine and Food Society organised a tasting to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the ‘Judgement of Paris’. This time it was France vs New World, not just California. The tasting was held (almost) simultaneously in 3 continents (no mean feat!). Choice of wine was somewhat determined by availability in these locations although many bottles were carried across the globe!

My chums Peter Richards MW and Beverley Blanning MW tasted along and suggested an order of preference. They were more in line with my notes than with the aggregated scores of the tasters! My sense was that Kumeu River and Puligny Montrachet were the best scored whites with the Kiwi bottle edging it. As all three Masters of Wine tipped Domaine de Chevalier, France took the red trophy!

Every wine found a taster to love it the most. Two wines that stood out for the three MWs, but not so much for the tasters, were Restless River Chardonnay 2020 and Chateau Langoa Barton 2018. The Langoa was just too young to make a fair comparison.

My notes are in italics with the top three of each flight marked* These choices were almost in line with the MWs who tasted at the original event. They also favoured the Kanonkop and that would be very close behind my own top three. For the whites they both rated the Macon more highly.

James Handford
Master of Wine

CHARDONNAYS

Concha y Toro Amelia Limari 2023 (Buy Amelia now)
The bodega dates back to 1883 when Melchor Concha y Toro brought in vines from France to fulfil his dream of creating the best in the world wines in Chile. The Amelia Limari Chardonnay is sourced from Block 9 in the Quebrada Seca Vineyard, located 190m above sea level on the northern bank of the Limari River. The soil is rich in calcium carbonate, the temperatures are cold, with fog on most mornings. After whole bunch fermentation, the wine spends 12 months in French oak (18% new) with no malolactic fermentation.

Very bright gold/yellow. Open, creamy, peach juice and sweet lemon nose. A little heavy handed and lacking lift but quality, long and very well integrated. Only disappointing in that there seems to be no sense of this unique terroir.

Maison Louis Jadot Puligny Montrachet 2022 (Buy Louis Jadot Wines)
The maison was founded by Louis Henry Denis Jadot in 1859. The first vineyard is the Beaune vineyard, Clos des Ursules. Today, it produces more than 150 appellations across Burgundy and Beaujoulais from Grand Crus to Bourgognes. It controls a total of 270 hectares (670 acres) of vineyards.  Jacques Lardiere long-time Technical Director and now winemaker emeritus, widely regarded as one of Burgundy’s most respected winemakers, advocates a minimalist intervention approach to wine-making. Puligny-Montrachet is situated to the south of Mersault and north of Chassagne-Montrachet. After harvesting by hand, the wine is fermented in oak barrels (now produced by their own cooperage CADUS). 1/3rd are new barrels.  Aged for 15 months on fine lees before bottling.

*Deep golden colour. Focussed, pure, chalky mineral, with a touch of melba toast and ripe lime. Long, deep, well integrated and beautifully balanced. Very fine.

Kumeu River Coddington 2024 (Buy Kumeu River Wines)
Kumeu River is a family-run winery located just to the north of Auckland. The estate dates back to 1937 when founders Mick and Katé Brajkovich moved half-way across the world from their native Croatia to New Zealand. Now into the third generation, wine maker Michael Brajkovich continues the focus on making Burgundy style Chardonnays. The Coddington label is from Tim and Angela Coddington who have been working with the Brajkovich family since 1998. Following the harvest by hand, the wine is fermented in the barrel and then matured in oak for 11 months.

*Paler, silver/yellow with a rich, toasty hazel and brazil nut nose that is pierced by a pointed note of orange peel. Full texture, soft cream and a feel of sweetness. Intense, balanced, not quite integrated for now, this an ethereal coolness on the long finish. Very fine and will reach its apogee in Summer 2027.

Leflaive Macon-Verze 2022 (Buy Leflaive Wines)
The domaine is a revered estate in Burgundy, with roots in Puligny-Montrachet dating back to the early 20th century under the stewardship of Joseph Leflaive. Today, the domaine is a benchmark for biodynamic viticulture. The Mâconnais appellation of Mâcon-Verzé lies to the south of the Côte d’Or, where Domaine Leflaive has established parcels The 2022 vintage reflects the warmth and balance of the growing season, delivering both ripeness and freshness. Grapes are harvested by hand and pressed gently before fermentation, which takes place primarily in stainless steel with a portion in oak barrels to preserve purity while adding subtle texture. The wine is aged on fine lees for several months prior to bottling, enhancing complexity and mouthfeel while maintaining vibrant acidity.

Pale and pure yellow with a broad, slightly vegetal, pea pod and lemon pith nose. Ripe tangerine notes, a flinty freshness, plenty of lift and length. Delicious Macon if not quite in the same quality bracket as the rest of this flight.

Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2022 (Buy Montelena Wines)
The winery dates back to 1882, when Alfred L. Tubbs bought 254 acres (103 ha) of land just north of Calistoga at the foot of Mount Saint Helena. By 1896 Chateau Montelena was the seventh largest winery in the Napa Valley. Owned by the Barrett family since 1972, with Bo Barrett as the current CEO. The grapes are sourced from parcels in Oak Knoll and Coomsville, aged in 15% to 25% new French oak barrels, without malolactic fermentation. The 1973 Chardonnay was rated No 1 in the 1976 Judgement of Paris event.

Weighty, dense and with warmth and ripeness. Some signs of age here; forest floor and mushroom notes but with smooth, stone fruit and ripe guava too. Well balanced and integrated if a little inelegant. Drinking very well now.

Restless River Ava Marie 2020 (Buy Restless River Wines)
The winery is a family-owned estate founded by Craig Wessels and Anne Wessels in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, near Hermanus in South Africa’s Western Cape. The property was established in the early 2000s and focuses on small-scale production, with vineyards planted on decomposed granite and clay-rich soils. The 2020 vintage was produced under generally dry conditions in the Walker Bay region, contributing to moderate yields and steady ripening. Fruit is sourced from estate vineyards, where grapes are harvested by hand and sorted before processing. Fermentation takes place using indigenous yeasts in a combination of vessels, typically including oak barrels. The wine is aged for an extended period prior to bottling, often on fine lees, depending on the cuvée, to support structural development and stability. Production remains limited, with an emphasis on site expression and minimal intervention practices, including restrained use of new oak and limited fining or filtration.

Pure gold, very bright, closed to the nose showing just a hint of umami, acacia honey and shortcake. It’s almost perfumed. All in all a beautifully complex nose. Bright acids, cool clementine fruit and juicy citrus and white nectarine notes. A touch steely on the finish. A little shy now but this will benefit from another year or two in the cellar. Very good indeed.

RED BORDEAUX BLENDS

Domaine de Chevalier 2017
The producer is a classified growth estate located in the Pessac-Léognan within the Graves. The property has a history dating back several centuries and has been managed by the Bernard family since 1983, under the direction of Olivier Bernard. The estate is known for producing both red and white wines from vineyards planted on gravelly soils over clay and sand. The 2017 vintage in Bordeaux was marked by significant spring frost, which reduced yields across many areas, though sites in Pessac-Léognan were comparatively less affected. The growing season that followed was generally warm and dry, allowing for steady ripening of both red and white grape varieties. Grapes are harvested by hand and sorted before vinification. For the red wine, fermentation takes place in a combination of temperature-controlled stainless steel and oak vats, followed by aging in French oak barrels, a proportion of which are new, for approximately 16–18 months. The estate farms approximately 60 hectares of vineyards, with plantings that include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot for the red wine. 

*Bright and just turning orange to the edges. Gorgeous nose showing ethereal notes of fresh berry, blueberry and steak! Perfectly structured, rich in the mid palate and mouthwatering. Very fine, approaching its best now and for another decade or so. My wine of the night! 

Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2019 (Buy Kanonkop Wines)
Kanonkop takes its name from a hillock (kop) on the Simonsberg mountain above the wine estate from where, during the 17th and 18th centuries, a cannon (kanon) was fired to announce the arrival of sailing ships entering Table Bay. The first wines bearing the Kanonkop label were produced in 1973. Now into its’ 4th generation, it is managed by brothers Paul and Johann Krige. The Paul Sauer Cabernet Savignon is named after the founder Paul Sauer. The first vintage was 1981. 2022 started wet in spring, followed by a hot summer. It is made with 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot from vineyards in Simonsberg, Stellenbosch. The vines are on average 30 years old. Fermentation takes place in open top concrete vats. The floating skins were punched down by hand, every 2 hours during fermentation. The juice was drawn off the skins after 5 days. After malolactic fermentation the wine was matured for 24 months in 100% new 225L French oak barrels.

*Lighter in colour and with some orange tinge. Not browning at all. Fairly open with a hint of chocolate orange. Open, cool and this has kept its acid balance well. There’s a lot to like here! Paul Sauers generally age well in the longer term. I would advise drinking this up in the next 3 or 4 years. 

Chateau Langoa Barton 2018 (Buy Langoa Barton Wines)
(St Julien) (3rd growth) is the older of the two Bartons (the other being Leoville).  Currently managed by Lilian Barton Satrorius, it is one of the oldest family-owned vineyards in Bordeaux, and likely to remain so, as her 2 children Damien Sartorius and Melaine Sartorius are more involved in managing Leoville Barton. The soil composition is mostly gravel with a subsoil of clay. The plantings on the 15 hectare vineyard are 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.  Fermentation is in 200-hectolitre temperature controlled wooden vats. Generally fermentation lasts about five days during which the juice is pumped over twice daily, followed by maceration of about two weeks, depending on the vintage.  The wine spends up to 20 months in oak, 50% new each year, and is fined and filtered prior to bottling.

*By contrast this is far too young! Deep, pure red/black, youthful and with ne oak notes dominating the nose. Seems a little raw to smell with a focussed note of elderberry and cassis. Many layers of fruit on the tongue, intense in acidity though tannins are quite ripe. Wonderfully intense and needs a decade in the cellar. 

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
The winery started in 1969 and is one of the founding estates of the Margaret River wine region. Located in the northern sub-region of Wilyabrup, Margaret River. Chief winemaker, viticulturist and proprietor, Keith Mugford has been making the wine and tending the vineyard at Moss Wood since 1979. In 1984 he was joined by his wife Clare. 2022 is the 50th vintage made by the Mugfords. It has 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Although it was a wet year at the start, grapes were able to ripen fully later in the season. Wines were aged in 228 litre French oak barrels, of which 16% were new.

This one is under screw cap. Light in colour, slightly volatile with soft, ripe berry and almost Grenache notes! Black cherry, a hint of graphite and sweet plum. This sweetness and ripeness of fruit comes through on the palate, balanced with a slightly raw note. Pleasing if clumsy for a wine of this reputation.

Nicolas Catena Zapata 2020 (Click here to buy now)
The bodega is a family-owned winery located in Mendoza, in the sub appellation of Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina. The winery was founded in 1902 by Italian immigrant Nicola Catena and was later passed to his son Domingo. The first vintage of Nicolas Catena Zapata was 1997. It sought to recreate the “Original Bordeaux Blend” of the 18th pre-Phylloxera era in Bordeaux, where Malbec was more dominant than Merlot, alongside Cabernet Sauvignon. The Catena family has been active in promoting Malbec e.g. through the Catena Institute of Wine and in 1999, partnering with Domaines Barons de Rothschild to create Bodegas Caro – a Malbec dominant and Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Harvest is by hand, and fermentation takes place in small oak barrels, concrete and stainless-steel tanks for 15 days. Total maceration lasts between 19 to 22 days before malolactic fermentation and aging in French oak barrels for 18 months.

*Deep and concentrated in appearance. Very closed on the nose, this a big and intense red showing date and damson notes. There is black spice and liquorice on the finish. Firm acidity. This has an unusual, but not in the least unpleasant profile in the mouth whereby fruit pushes to the top of the palate. Perhaps a bit of Merlot might round it off? Very high quality, I enjoyed it though it’s perhaps not the most direct comparison with others in the flight.

Shafer TD-9 2019
The winery is a family-owned estate founded in 1972 by John Shafer in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. The winery remains under the Shafer family, with winemaking led for many years by Elias Fernandez. The estate focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends sourced from hillside and estate vineyards. The TD-9 is a proprietary red blend sourced from vineyards across Napa Valley, including sites in the Stags Leap District and surrounding appellations. The 2019 vintage in Napa Valley experienced a long, moderate growing season with cooler conditions compared to recent years, allowing for gradual ripening and balanced fruit development. Grapes are harvested by hand, sorted, and fermented in temperature-controlled tanks. The wine is then aged in French oak barrels for approximately 20 months, with a portion of new oak used depending on the lot. The blend typically includes Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec, with proportions varying by vintage.

Pure red in colour and with open and obvious cassis nose. Wonderful ripeness and with a hint of savoury. Nicely open, mature and with a syrupy richesse. Pure and easy going, this is a lovely drink though, like the Macon, is not quite in the same bracket as these other reds.